Mediterranean wines: welcome to Spain
Mood:
mischievious
Topic: Bartending

For this week's class, we made it to Spain—another wine territory I know very little about. But that will change, I hope.
Like Italy, Spain has classification systems and definitions for aging.
DO or DOCa must follow these terms and guidelines:
Vino Joven: red and white, no oak, minimum of one year aging.
Crianza: reds—24 months minimum aging, 6 months minimum in cask, down from the previous one year. Whites and Rosado—12 months minimum aging, 6 months minimum in cask.
Reserva: reds—minimum aging of 36 months, 12 months minimum in cask the remaining time must be in the bottle, not in a tank. Whites and Rosado—24 months in minimum aging, 6 months minimum in cask, remaining time in a bottle.
Grand Reserva: reds—60 months minimum aging, 18 months minimum in cask, the remaining time must be in a bottle. Whites and Rosado—48 months minimum, 6 months minimum in cask, remaining time in the bottle.
As Spain is one of the largest wine territories in Europe, they have many different grape varietals (according to a handout from my teacher), including:
THE WHITES
Airen—the most widely planted grape in the world, but planted only in the center part of Spain. The million acres of Airen sited in Spain's Meseta amount to far more than all the acres of Cabernet in the world, as well as any other grape you can name. It is generally used for Brandy and for simple whites.
Albarino—depending upon the vintage and the subregion of Rias Baixas, the indigenous variety of Galicia in northwest Spain can be rich and expressive, with peach and apricot notes or tart and bracing, like green apples and lemon peels.
Godello—a relatively unknown variety that can express depth and character in Valdeorras, and increasingly more in Ribeiro.
Hondarribi—a cause celebre in some markets, this produces the bracingly tart, txakoli-style white wine of Basque Country.
Parellada—the bulk ingredient of most Cava and a few pleasant table wines.
Pedro Ximenez—generally speaking, a variety used in the production of sweet Sherry. In Montilla-Moriles, this grape can produce great dessert wines but also a few dry-styled wines.
Verdejo—a delightful and textured grape, with citrus elements covering notes of melon, apple, and stone fruits. Often it is blended with Sauvignon Blanc in Rueda.
Viura—A grape that performs differently in different places. In Penedes, especially in Cava production, it's the fat and friendly part of a blend. But in Rioja or Navarra, you can find partisans who believe it simply requires careful vinification to unlock its character and even longevity.
Xarel-lo—one of the principle constituents of Cava, this surprisingly interesting variety goes into the production of some lovely wines from the slate soils of Alella. It can be the layered and age-worthy part of Cava.

THE REDS
Alicante—sometimes called Garnacha Tintorera, it's one of the few grapes to have not only color in the skins but also colored juice.
Bobal—ironically, better known for its blending attributes than for its stand-alone abilities, but there are now delicious Bobals being made in the Valencia region.
Carinena—known as Carignan in the rest of the world, but its rightful name is Carinena, just like the eastern Spanish town from which is probably originates. It's called Mazuelo in Rioja and doesn't get much respect anywhere except in Priorat and Montsant, where old vines can produce a powerful, notable wine.
Garnacha—known as Grenache in the rest of the world, it ought to be called Garnacha, as it originates in Spain, and traveled to southern France in the eighth and ninth centuries. The rap on the grape is that it is only great when it's powerful and alcoholic. That's not necessarily true, but Grenache does need to grow in a warm spot to display its best character. It's the critical grape in Priorat, and it is often bottled as a rosado elsewhere in Spain. It's the third most planted grape in Spain and the second most planted variety in the world.
Graciano—a very minor player in Rioja but one that has its fans. It can have beautiful aromatics, color, and tannin.
Juan Garcia—grown in Zamora, but is more about potential than reality.
Listan Negro—a grape that offers excellence on the Canary Islands.
Manto Negro—grown on Minorca and Mallorca and offering occasional excellence.
Mencia—some folks think its Cabernet Franc. It's not, but it's easy to understand why. It carries the red-cherry intensity and herbal note often found in Cabernet Franc. Like Cabernet Franc, Mencia can often be underwhelming. Even at its best, it is more structured than lush.
Monastrell—known in the rest of the world as Mourvedre, it's a grape of Spanish origin. As in France, it is capable of producing truly great wines, but so few people are focused upon that goal. The grape shows the most promise in Jumilla and Yecla.
Moristel—a light and fruity grape in Somontano that almost never makes serious or powerful wine but can be a charming wine nonetheless.
Tempranillo—the reigning indigenous red variety of Spain. Its various clones that are grown in different parts of Spain have very different characteristics: in the south, it ripens early; in Penedes, growers say that it's low in acidity and doesn't age well; in Ribera del Duero, it's an ideal ager with moderate tannins and alcohol; and even in Rioja, growers accuse it of low acidity, yet it ages far better than its structure suggests. The variety has performed exceedingly well in the traditional style of Rioja; the soft, modern style of red wine; and also in powerful, rich, international school-style wines.
The wines we tasted in class include the Paul Cheneau Cava "Lady of Spain" from Penedes, the 2008 Rioja from Monopole, the 2008 Rioja by Rioja Vega, the 2006 DOC Rioja by Lorinon Tinto Crianza, the 2004 Labastida Reserva, and the 2006 DO Cava/DO Penedes by Can Feixes Negre Seleccio.
Posted by wittywriter7
at 12:01 AM CDT
Updated: Thursday, July 15, 2010 8:14 AM CDT